While the BP oil spill continues to harm the livelihood of Louisiana's Gulf Coast fisherman, the toxic slick likely won't reach the inland freshwater swamps where crawfish thrive. The alien-looking critters are still safe to eat — and now is the time to eat then, since the season concludes soon.
The season for the crustacean runs from late November to the end of June, according to Louisiana native and food writer Pableaux Johnson. The size of the crawfish can be charted in a bell curve, he says, with smaller ones at the start and end of the season, and the meatiest appearing around Easter.
Chef Steve Van Gelder of the restaurant Cooking with Jazz in Queens, says that crawfish are currently running at about $4.50 or so a pound. That includes the cost of shipping them from the Gulf Coast, because the critters have to be boiled when they are alive. He notes that in a 40 pound bag, about 8 or 9 pounds are often "deadies" or "straight tails," and can't be used.
"An average portion at a crawfish boil is either three or five pounds a piece, per person," says Johnson (pictured to the right). "Pound for pound, there's a lot of shell compared to the tail meat. In Louisiana, you buy them by the sack, and each sack is 55 pounds." Johnson warns that hosting a crawfish boil anywhere outside of Louisana can be cost prohibitive and, frankly, doesn't recommend it. One Soho chef (who didn't want to be named) admitted to hating crawfish, both for the food miles they incur and because they are often mistreated in the shipping process. Just imagine a box of crawfish left too long on a sunny tarmac.
Several large-scale crawfish boils are taking place in the city over the next few weeks, including one at Sycamore in Ditmas Park on Sunday, May 23. There's also the 21st annual Crawfish Fest in Augusta, N.J., on June 4-6.
For those who are inexperienced with the consumption of crawfish, both Johnson and Van Gelder recommend pinching the head, twisting the tail, peeling it and eating the tail meat. They both also heartily endorse "sucking the head," which involves consuming the ball of orange "fat," or the crawfish's liver, a flavorful nugget that retains the spices from the boil.
If you can't get fresh crawfish, there is the alternative of using frozen, processed crawfish tails. While less fun and messy, they're more readily available and good for dishes like crawfish etoufée. Johnson's recipe for the traditional Louisana dish is below.
Crawfish Etouffée
by Pableaux Johnson
Serves 4
- 2 lbs peeled crawfish tails with fat (available in the seafood section of specialty stores)
- 1/4 cup butter
- 1/2 cup celery, diced
- 1/2 cup onions, diced fine
- 1/2 up. green bell pepper, diced
- 2 cup cold water
- 1 1/2 tsp. corn starch
- 1/4 cup green onions and parsley, chopped (more for garnish)
- salt, black pepper and a little red (cayenne) pepper to taste (or substitute commercial Cajun seasoning such as Tony Chachere’s)
1. Season crawfish tails with salt and peppers.
2. In a heavy-bottomed pot, saute onions, bell pepper and celery in the butter, cooking until onions are transparent and golden.
3. Add crawfish and 1 1/2 cup water. Over medium-low heat, bring to a boil and then reduce flame to low simmer, stirring occasionally for 30 minutes.
4. Dissolve cornstarch in 1/2 up. hot water, stir into pot and return to gentle boil.
5. Add onion tops and parsley and return heat to low for 10 minute simmer.
6. Serve over cooked white rice.