Like Brad Pitt is to Hollywood, the Alphonso mango is to tropical fruit. Considered the “King of Mangoes,” the variety first became legal to import to the United States in 2007. Since then, every spring, it’s all Alphonso, Alphonso, Alphonso. While the buzz may be justified, there are plenty of other delicious varieties of mangoes that also deserve time in the spotlight — and have the added benefit of being available through the hot, sultry summer months.
Francis Lam, the senior food writer for Salon, says that right now is his favorite time for the fruit, because it’s when American mangoes are available from the Southern-most regions of Florida.
“It’s not really a matter of national pride. It’s not really a matter of a little bit more local,” admits Lam. “The Florida mangoes that I’ve had of the Kent variety are seriously one of the greatest things I’ve ever eaten in my entire life. I mean, literally, licking-the-juice-off-your-elbow kind of fruit. Usually, you get to the wrist and you’re pretty happy, but when you get to down to the elbow, it’s really something else.” Lam, pictured below in a Kent mango–induced stupor, also recommends Altaulfo and Keitt mangoes, both of which are in season now.
When picking out ripe mangoes, Lam notes that color isn’t always an indicator, since different types vary from green to bright orange. How you dig into a mango remains the same, though, regardless of variety: Cut the mango lengthwise along the flat sides in a shape that mirrors the large, flat pit. Then, while holding a segment, score the fruit gently in bite-sized cubes, taking care not to cut through the skin. Flip the skin inside out and the segments stand up, almost begging to be eaten. The pit, or “mango bone” as one of Lam’s readers referred to it, can be peeled and eaten over the sink by someone ready to get messy.
Mangoes of all types are an ideal juicy, slurpy summer snack. After all, holding out for an Alphonso this year wasn’t the wisest move anyway.
“This year we didn't get any Alphonso mangoes,” said Dev Patel, whose family owns the Indian grocery chain, Patel Brothers. “I think they were having some type of issue getting them cleared to come over here this year.”
Below is Lam’s version of the Indian yogurt drink mango lassi, which is more fruit-heavy than the traditional recipe. He recommends using very ripe mangoes, but confesses that canned Indian mango purée will also do the trick.
Mango Lassi
by Francis Lam
- 3 parts whole-milk yogurt, not the strained Greek kind
- 3 parts mango
- 1 part milk
- sugar, to taste (optional)
- Pinch ground cardamom (optional)
- Crushed pistachio (optional)
- Cream (optional)
- sugar, to taste (optional)
If you're using a prepared purée, just whisk or mix together. If using fresh fruit, purée everything together in a blender or food processor. Garnish with any or none of the optional ingredients.