In the 19th century, the loss of a loved one was a common experience. Children often died during birth or infancy, and the average life expectancy was under 50.
Mourning attire was a symbol of grief, but also of the wearer’s taste and status.
A new exhibition at the Metropolitan Museum explores the development and cultural implications of mourning fashions from 1815 to 1915.
“Death Becomes Her: A Century of Mourning Attire” includes approximately 30 ensembles, many of which are being exhibited for the first time – dresses, hats, jewelry and other accessories. One of the highlights are mourning gowns worn by Queen Victoria and Queen Alexandra.
Harold Koda, Curator in Charge of The Costume Institute, said they decided to focus on mourning dresses while thinking about an exhibit about the silhouette. He said many of the most elaborately conceived dresses they found were mourning dresses. “So we said, why don't we add the overlay of mourning to this idea of fashionable silhouette.”
Koda said mourning attire was not optional. “Even people who really couldn't afford the elaborate transformation of their wardrobe into mourning dress, there was this feeling that they had to. And this comes up over and over again when you read contemporary anecdotal evidence and letters and journals,” he said.
The exhibit is at the Anna Wintour Costume Center from October 21 to February 1, 2015.
