How James Beard’s Queerness Influenced American Food Culture

Most people who follow the food world are probably aware of the James Beard Award, which honors chefs, restaurants, and writers for their culinary contributions. But fewer people these days are familiar with Beard himself: known as the “Dean of American cookery,” he was one of the most influential voices in mid-century kitchens.

Beard’s public story was the result of serious effort on his part, but he hid much of his personal life from his readers — including the fact that he was gay. In the new book, The Man Who Ate Too Much: The Life of James Beard, author John Birdsall explores the stories and relationships that Beard tried to keep hidden for decades. WNYC host Sean Carlson spoke with him about what it means to reexamine the iconic cook’s life through a queer lens.

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